Roger Vivier SS23 Presentation
"Roger Vivier was an inventor who changed fashion and the history of accessories. My job is to highlight the Maison's legendary values regarding his visionary creativity. 'What would Roger Vivier do?' In today's fast-paced digital world, it felt like the right moment to remark on Roger Vivier's singular impact and own the house signature codes," said Creative Director Gherardo Felloni to introduce the Maison Vivier featuring Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
The Maison takes its deepest dive into the archives to explore Roger Vivier's legacy steeped in savoir-faire and expose its relevance today. This creative exercise pays homage to the founder's innovative designs, reinterpreting the feeling in contemporary variations.
In a Parisian hotel particulier, the presentation segues from the frolicking fantasy of Hotel Vivier to Maison Vivier, taking an institutional and educational look at the house's most iconic themes and inventions, allowing guests to immerse themselves fully in its imagination and expertise. The Maison presents as a home whose ingenious heart beats loudly in today's contemporary aesthetic.
A life-size wooden shoe sculpture, recalling one made for a 1987 retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, greets viewers as they begin to journey through six themed rooms dissecting Roger Vivier's inventive hallmarks: “King of the Heel”, “Belle Vivier”, “I Love Vivier”, “Collages”, “Virgule”, Embroideries and Jewel heel”.
The Belle Vivier, with its famous buckle, the rich embroidery techniques, the exquisite jewel creations, the sculptural Choc heel, and the intriguing Virgule heel, are on display. Each is elevated to art status, allowing a deep understanding of Monsieur Roger Vivier's creative vision. House artisans - embroiderers, master leather cutters, and crystal setters - demonstrate the craft that is crucial to any Roger Vivier shoe or bag.
The dynamic result of the collection is witnessed in the Virgule Flowers Bow Sling Back, initially created in 1963 by Monsieur. An electric acid yellow mesh slingback pump with a contrasting pink 55 mm heel includes emblematic house floral embroidery techniques, which take more than seven hours to complete. The shoe topped off with a pink satin bow nods to Roger Vivier's fascination with bows, stemming from his time as a hat maker while living in New York in the ’40s.
A new edition of the Viv’ Choc Flowers Bag is proposed to further demonstrate the art-level stature of the house artisans' work. Also arriving in the same electric acid yellow, the bag displays multi-color strass and crystal gemstone floral motifs bordered by a trim of crystal with a strass buckle. According to Felloni, the bright hue reflects a pillar of the brand. "Color is fundamental to expressing emotion through a shoe."
Both of these styles are made in a cheerful color and motif meant to highlight day looks and involve complex hand-embroideries, a savoir- faire the Maison feels responsible for preserving.
Photos by Macky Mann